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Creating a Mosaic Art Piece using the Indirect Method


There are a couple of different ways to approach mosaics, one being the indirect method. This method utilizes materials other than simply the surface you are mosaicing: fiberglass mesh, butcher paper or craft paper and clear plastic or plastic wrap. The type of method used, indirect versus direct, really depends on the application. If you are creating a large floor installation, for instance, the indirect method can be convenient for transporting and working on small sections at a time.

While there are a few different indirect methods, the following instructions are using mesh, butcher paper and plastic wrap.

First, cut your paper to the appropriate size for your installation and sketch out your design. The example drawing below is to be installed on a 25” round table top. After you have your design and your paper laid out, darken your drawing with a Sharpie or dark felt tip pen to allow for ease of seeing the image through the layers.

Next, tape your drawing to the work surface (large table or piece of plywood on saw horse) and then cover with clear plastic (Saran Wrap or something similar). Tape the plastic down and then cover with the fiberglass mesh and tape the mesh down on the work table. Now you have a sandwich of the drawing, plastic, and mesh all taped down securely. You should be able to clearly see the drawing through the layers.
Begin cutting and gluing your tesserae or mosaic pieces to the mesh with pva (white glue or Weldbond). The technique used to apply the glue is a personal one. Applying the glue directly to mesh in a thin layer is one of the easiest and fastest methods. If too aggressive with the glue, however, this method can pose a problem when it comes time to set the mesh in your mortar or adhesive bed. Just be mindful of how much glue you use – a little goes a long way. Depending on the project you may have to back butter each tile with glue. We do not advise products such as Liquid Nails or mortar to adhere tiles to the mesh. It can become messy and difficult to clean. Water soluble, clear drying adhesives are typically preferred.

Once you have completed your project and the tiles are glued and dried to the mesh, simply remove the tape and check for any loose tiles. Prepare the surface that you will be adhering your project, using an appropriate adhesive. Use a notched trowel to apply the adhesive (typically a thin set mortar) and create a uniform bed that is not so thick as to allow the mortar to squeeze up into the grout lines. You want only enough for the mesh and the back of the tile to make contact and form a bond.

Try to align the mosaic before touching down as moving it around once you have made full contact can cause an irregular or uneven adhesive bed, creating a wavy or uneven finished surface.

Use a board longer than the mosaic to tamp the mosaic into the adhesive bed. Use a gentle tapping across the surface. The long board also lets you know where the mosaic is out of level. Immediately clean any excess adhesive especially grout lines and tile surfaces. Let dry for 24 hours or to the adhesive manufacturer’s specifications.

Now you are ready to grout. See how to grout your mosaic.